As to be nicknamed the Witch of the image

Women that Peter Lindbergh photography are never similar to the other: they are vampires, acrobats, cabaret dancers in the Berlin of the 1920s... He immortalized them in sweat, repeating dance steps. Or with Angel wings. Still other times, he brutally struck gender: in arid, desolate, landscape Lindbergh "shoote" its models in luxurious tailors. But remove the clothing and let that faces: they are the same from strokes, the same anger that one crosses in the documentary made during the great depression. The photographer has the gift arise there where would not expected it.

It is true that he does not like smiles, like the digital touchups which verge, for him, "the aesthetic transaction". Even its promotional visuals for l ' Oréal, Armani, Estée Lauder or Calvin Klein rarely bright mannequins. Explanation: "for me, a face without smile is more expressive, tells more." The smile disadvantage to the top on any expression of the face. "Effect of style for one of the iconic photographers of magazines"Vogue"and"Harper's Bazaar"of the 1990s Provocation "I am not a reporter and a columnist." "What I put in scene, what are my visions", merely object.

It will be understood, Peter Lindbergh, sixty-six years, is more complex than its reassuring silhouette of "teddy bear" and its small round glasses might suggest. In his workshop in the 6earrondissement of Paris, he collapses personal confidence, while it is unlimited on Barack Obama or Michael Moore. Perish when it is known that the success of its work is due to its exceptional ability to capture the personality of its models, to suggest their cracks. As to be nicknamed "the Witch of the image.

These are snippets of Biography which is Gin cotton, without embellishment. Peter Lindbergh, his real name Peter Brodbeck, was born on 23 November 1944, Lissa, in the ruins of the IIIeReich. He grew up in Germany from the East, at Duisburg in the Ruhr area, "the most ugly part of the world". Dazzled by Van Gogh, Lindbergh moves towards drawing and painting. It addresses the photo to 27 years, influenced by German Expressionism films by Georg Pabst or Fritz Lang, and Helmut Newton and especially Diane Arbus. Hence the choice of black and white which is predominant in his work. Photos for the German magazine "Stern" in 1978, then very quickly "the new yorker", "vanity fair", "rolling stones" ensues. Almost naturally, without any clashes or efforts, from least to hear it.

The black colour

The decisive spark with "Vogue", in 1988, comes after a disastrous first contact. American way magazine may be unavoidable, Lindbergh was not sticking to his vision of women, "too perfect". Alexander Libermann, artistic director, told me then "go!" Show me what is your wife! "" Lindbergh carries out on the beach of Santa Monica a series where, dressed in a white shirt, capped the devil, the six future tops of the 1990s (including Christy Turlington, Estelle Lefébure, Linda Evangelista) shakes. "" " "They laughed, they were alive, it was the first time that one photographing girls in this way," remembers Lindbergh. The series arrives in a drawer where it will remain so until Anna Wintour is the Chief Editor and flashe illico. Now identified, beautiful, top models to raise to the rank of undisputed stars of the 1990s.

But it is also this, Peter Lindbergh. A mixture explosive, disturbing, a permanent aesthetic research and a compelling commercial result. Over the years, he gradually moved the black colour, especially since the arrival of the digital, Visual urban fashion photos more choreographed, then logical conclusion, the realization of documentaries and experimental films. But it is well known, the wizards were always more than one turn in their bag.

Eight photos of Peter Lindbergh commented by himself on lesechos.fr/diaporamalesechos.fr/diaporama